What is twill?

Twill, known in Dutch as keperbinding, is a weaving technique that creates diagonal ribs in the fabric. Those ribs not only give a timeless look, they also make the fabric robust yet supple. Twill weaves are also more hard-wearing than fabrics with a plain weave, which explains why you see the technique in clothing that has to endure a lot and still needs to look smart.

What kind of fabric is twill?

Twill can be made from various materials, usually cotton, wool, polyester or a blend of these. During weaving the threads are interlaced in a specific way to create the diagonal pattern: following a sequence of over one, under two, with the starting point shifting by one thread on each row. Depending on the yarn, the proportions and the technique, all kinds of variants arise, from the popular denim twill to the elegant herringbone twill. Twill is among the strongest weaves there are, which makes it an excellent choice for garments that face daily wear, such as men's trousers and jackets.

Advantages and disadvantages of twill

The sturdiness of twill means clothing keeps its shape, even after repeated wear and washing. In addition, despite the dense weave the fabric feels soft and supple against the skin. Twill also has excellent crease-recovery properties, which makes it ideal for formal menswear such as shirts. On the other hand, the fabric can feel heavier and warmer than a lighter weave, which makes twill a less obvious choice for summer or warm climates. Always follow the care label instructions to preserve the quality.

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